Great Falls/McLean/Vienna Times 

Cafe Renaissance captures simple elegance in classic dining.
By: Michael Birchenall                    Nov. 29, 2000

Cafe Renaissance is a classic example of a restaurant located in the family community of Vienna, that is the epitome of hard work, perseverance and yes, great service and good food.

Saeed Abtahi is the owner of this lovely dining home for fine continental cuisine with the ever-popular French and Italian accents. Since opening in the former home of a Peruvian chicken house that had met demise with the nearby opening of a Boston Market, Cafe Renaissance has beaten the odds of the restaurant industry-open and going strong seven years later. What works for the success of Cafe Renaissance is the same today as it was when my wife made the call for our first reservation, soon after the restaurant opened. The call was taken graciously with style and sincere hospitality.

The greeting at the door is the same as in those early days --all the "lovely ladies" are welcomed and the gentlemen feel complimented for their good taste in company. Saeed and his colleagues are masters at making everyone feeling welcome and good about themselves--and that's before they reach the table. They form a service team on the floor (supplemented by experience servers on the busy nights) that makes the evening flow with charming ease--whether in their wine service or the presentation of chef Ocean Joseph's dessert cart from table to table, they move about the dining room floor taking orders, serving food and pouring wine.

One of the pleasures is the flexibility of the menu--the only "have it your way" fine dining restaurant that I've ever visited. The menu even now recognizes the Veal Scallopini in the Cafe Renaissance way--"as you wish". That means the tender, pounded sautéed veal is available Francaise (dipped in egg batter), Marsala, Piccata, Paillard (grilled) and Normand (fresh apple and Calvados cream sauce).

The same principle applies to sampling the menu--on a recent evening, the specials were a red snapper and a potato encrusted veal tenderloin. But when both sounded too good to choose between them, as it did to one of my guests, then you can have the two orders split onto one plate.

Hot appetizers have always been a Cafe Renaissance strength. Here you can still find the garlicky escargot or my favorite the calves liver "Bercy" with its white wine, shallots and parsley sauce. There is a seared quality that adds a sweet caramelization to the liver complemented by the sophisticated flavor of the shallot.

For dinner, if you're a mussel lover, it's hard to pass up the cassoulet of mussels--a house specialty. The plump mussels are infused in a garlic wine broth and served with a side of linguini marinara. Ask for extra bread to sop up the fragrant remaining liquid on the bottom of the bowl.

There is always a selection of fish on the specials menu at night to accompany the monk fish medallions, steamed Canadian salmon and tilapia.

Continental favorites like veal scallopini Oscar and rack of lamb for two, are on the menu every night. The Cafe Renaissance menu has an extensive list of pastas, poultry (including stuffed quail) and steaks--it's your choice.

The kitchen is ably managed (plates are usually garnished with a trio of vegetables that may include asparagus hollandaise and miniature stuffed potato caps).

In that first review, I pointed out that the young wine list needed work--and work they have over the years. Today, it is a first-rate, small list that gives a wonderful range of choices. It even has a couple of the better Virginia wines from Oasis and Barboursville. On this evening, we had an Acacia pinot noir that surrounded our table with its aromatic berry nose. The wine was a great choice for a table having fish and veal dishes with its Burgundy-like qualities.

The dessert cart is a smorgasbord of sweet treats. Joseph always puts out a fruit tart, a creamy tiramisu, a ricotta cheesecake and profiteroles (filled with either custard or ice cream and laced with chocolate sauce).

Abtahi will gladly prepare flaming crepes (not on the menu) or a flambé Grand Marnier served over vanilla ice cream and strawberries. If you ask when you order dinner, the chef will gladly prepare a soufflé that will be ready by dessert time. I recently had the Galliano rum cake that was a perfect proportion of rich sweetness and liqueur balance.

My wife always has the flaming coffee specialty drink that has become a Cafe Renaissance trademark. Abtahi flames the liqueur (Kahlua, Irish whisky or Grand Marnier) and adds to the fire sugar sprinkles to line the inside of the glass, coffee and fresh whipped cream. Once they sell one, you'll see the dining room become awash in flames as Abtahi moves from flaming table to flaming table.

I have called Cafe Renaissance in the past "my favorite romantic dining place". That hasn't changed, but when you walk in, you might think this tiny suburban spot may not have the physical attribute for an obvious sense of the "romantic". Wrong. Here the romance is plated with the style that makes every table feel as if one is celebrating a special occasion.

Cafe Renaissance has begun the year with an updated menu and the always changing wine list--one thing they will not be changing is their obvious love for service and fine dining--thank you Saeed.